Downton Abbey Season IV

Six months after Downton Abbey's great tragedy, Mary is mired in grief and the estate is engulfed in death taxes. As the family struggles to lift their financial and emotional woes, clashes arise, sparks fly, and it is up to the older generation to bring Mary back to life, and Robert to his senses – no easy task in either respect. Another departure leaves no tears in its wake, but rather opportunity for new faces – and drama, alliances, and sparks of an entirely different sort – below stairs.

Downton's youth are drawn, as most people are, to glamorous jazz clubs, and a sparkling literary scene and social change sweeps its way up to the venerable estate.

Fashion in 1922-23 carried on the "boy" look of straight lines, flat chests, and no hips. Skirts continued to rise, the cloche style hat took hold, and drape and bias created the silhouette of evening wear.

 

Chanel 1922-23

Paul Poiret 1922-23




Fashion illustration became more and more creative, with art movements continuing to influence styling, making some illustrators almost as famous as designers.

Arte Deco Cloches

Sonia Delaunay

Georges Bibiet

Pret-a-Reporter interviewed Downton costume designer, Caroline McCall:

When we first met Lady Edith Crawley (Laura Carmichael) in 1912, she was Downton Abbey’s irretrievably dowdy middle daughter. She was nowhere near as vibrant as her impulsive and fetching younger sister, Lady Sybil (Jessica Brown Findlay). And she certainly did not reside in the regal realm occupied by her older sister, Lady Mary (Michelle Dockery).

But among the many intriguing surprises in season four of the PBS hit drama is the emergence of Edith as a comely independent woman. Not only is she openly having a relationship with a married man, she also is taking risks with her formerly staid wardrobe.

The show’s costume designer, Caroline McCall, who spoke to Pret-a-Reporter, sees Edith blossoming into a fashion flower. "Edith has never been completely confident in her own skin. When you feel like that, you tend to dress the way you want other people to perceive you," said McCall. "She was hoping that various men would find her appealing. She wore clothing that was a bit too old for her when she was engaged to an older man. And when she was attracted to a farmer, she began to wear farming gear. Then she dressed more nurse-like at the hospital."

 

McCall added: "This season, she’s already met a man she’s attracted to, so when she gets to London -- away from the bleak sadness at Downton -- she dresses very differently."

 McCall feels that the Downton women's change of clothes telegraphs the characters' arcs, explaining: "We are watching Edith and where she is going in this new age of more apparent freedom for women. Rose (played by Lily James) is finding her way in the world and she is of a new generation that is much more frivolous than generations past. Even Anna’s (Joanne Froggatt) clothing, because of the situation she finds herself in (reflects the tension and sorrow of her story-line). When something like that happens to you, it’s the natural thing to try to cover yourself up."

 Season four goes from 1922 to 1923, opening six months after Matthew Crawley’s (Dan Stevens) sudden death. The Downton women -- but not all of them -- are beginning to move from full mourning black to half mourning hues like lavenders, purples and grays, even black and white.

"Victorian tradition meant that the widow would stay in mourning for a year. Queen Victoria actually stayed in mourning for the rest of her life. After a year, women could move into mauve gray, black and white," said McCall.

 McCall stayed true to the early 1920s sensual and sleek bias-cut silhouettes, the result of an intense period of post-WWI creativity from European designers.

"It wasn’t until 1926 that the flapper look actually came into vogue," said McCall. "In the early '20s, there was an explosion of designers like Lanvin, Coco Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet and Paul Poiret, who were tremendously inspired by global influences."

 

True to form, Young Lady Rose continues to favor pink hues and is keeping up her image as a fashionable pretty young frivolous thing, shocking the family further this season with her attraction to a black nightclub singer.
 

But even the indomitable Dowager Countess (Maggie Smith) lightens up this season. "Her look is based on Queen Alexandra, who was a contemporary of hers. Throughout her life, she kept the same look -- the nipped-in waist, high-neck collars and beautiful hats. But now the fabrics are getting softer and lighter. Even her hats are lighter and less fussy. For instance, we put a sheer fabric -- a lace or net -- on her chest, in between the dress and the choker."

 Lest you think that McCall simply pops into London costume houses such as Angels and Cosprop for delicate vintage costumes, be advised that there is precious little vintage clothing left intact. She usually has to design a dress around a bit of vintage beading or lace she finds tucked away in a shop.

For instance, the “Beadith” was born from a small piece of original beading. And the coral dress Edith wears in episode two was fashioned from a dress that was literally falling apart. "We re-created it from a part of the original," said McCall.

So, whether the story-lines of Downton retain much depth or not, the costumes and set designs continue to fascinate and provide a good reason to continuing watching this series.

 

That 70's Girl.....and 50's, 60's, 80's, and 90's

This Spring's fashion line-up is all over the place with no specific trend. This is refreshing because any individual look goes. Designers are reaching back to previous decades for inspiration (what else is new?), but this season, and maybe this decade, hopefully, women won't feel enslaved to a particular style trend. Of course, the confident, secure woman is never enslaved to any one "look" or designer.

Sweet 1950's shows up along with the va va voom of the Eisenhower years.

Swinging 60' miniskirts, Carnaby Street, and rock 'n roll are revisited for young long limbs.

The mini that continued into the early 70's adds the hippy/ethnic vibe that carried the decade into disco - a decade that never needs repeating, please.

If anyone wants to throw in some shoulder pads, leg warmers, or Spandex from the 80's, feel free to make any combination today. Remember the excess and the big-shouldered "I Am Woman" period?

Armani 1984

Zandra Rhodes 1981

If the Grunge and Heroin Chic looks of the 90's are still appealing, incorporate them into 2015 and listen to Curt Cobaine, Madonna, Hip-Hop......

When history looks back at this time, will it be able to define this moment by a trend? What are the silhouettes, colors, skirt lengths, pant lines that identify the 2010's?

 

Now for some pieces that, with an endless clothes budget, would find themselves in this Cavanaugh's closet.

  


Downton Abbey Revisited, Season III

Lady Edith

Season III begins in 1920. Downton Abbey has weathered the war, Lady Mary and Matthew Crawley are finally planning their wedding, and Cora's mother, Martha Levinson (badly played by Shirley McClaine) invades the Grand House. The darker themes of this series continue after the death of Lady Cybil: Bates is in prison unjustly accused of murdering his wife, Lady Grantham blames Lord Grantham partly for Cybil's death, and there are concerns for the financial survival of this great Manor.


On a brighter side, Mary and Matthew have a gorgeous wedding, and we see Lady Edith evolve into a smart, beautiful, forward-thinking woman. It's clear in this season, that she, along with her counterpart downstairs, Daisy Mason, is one of the most interesting characters.

As always, costuming is key to this period drama. Although the wonderful Dowager Countess of Grantham clings to her Edwardian wardrobe, the other members of the upstairs family embrace the fresh new looks of 1920.

Dowager Countess Violet (Granny) of Grantham

Young Cousin Rose jumps into the Jazz Age with a zest that is influenced by music, Hollywood celebrities like Lillian Gish, Mary Pickford, Charlie Chaplin, Buster Keaton, and all the other stars of the period.

Although skirts hadn't shortened to the knee as they would later in the decade, 1920 truly released the underpinnings of dress and women moved freely, as suffragettes in Europe and the States pushed for the vote, better work environments, and birth control.

 

 

Art Deco was definitely making its appearance in architecture, interiors, and graphic design. Cubism added its own streamlined aesthetic to design as well.

Wedding dresses reflected the new age, and both Ladies Edith and Mary carried the simplicity beautifully.

Although, once again, Season III ends on an incredibly sad note, we see resolutions of Downstairs stories, and we see Lady Edith fall in love, a portent of the strong, independent future for her.

 

 

 

 



The Art in Artichoke

Food has been used in art throughout history. Images of food items have been found in artifacts all over the world. As any cook knows, a meal prepared from scratch is a creative activity that can be elevated to a work of art visually and in taste. No wonder creative people tend to be great cooks as well! Organic ingredients (as opposed to engineered or processed prepared food) have a beauty that no human can replicate. An heirloom tomato can be a gnarly misshapen orb, but like an unusual face, has its own visual interest.....and then there's the taste.

From Better Homes and Gardens

The Dutch and Flemish Renaissance masters took food paintings to a new level. Still Life painting reached its apex in the 16th century when the accoutrements of wealth became more fashionable, and that included a richly conceived arrangement of food and wine.

Today, with a vast abundance of (and healthier!) ingredients, chefs have made "presentation" an art form that should match, but not out-weigh taste. Contrasts in color, shape, texture, and size of ingredients make a glorious collage before one bite. That's the fun of eating in a great restaurant: ambience along with the combination of beautiful presentation and explosion of flavors. Enjoying this alone or with good company....what could be better?

29 Casseroles

Scalloped potatoes partnered with canned-salmon loaf in their matching Pyrex dishes.

Opaque, gelatinous tomato aspic sat beside the crusted silent mound of macaroni and cheese.

Every entrée had it corresponding side-dish.

Exotic and foreign Italian Delight shared a plate with Iceberg lettuce salad and Italian dressing.

Sunday’s magnificent roast took center stage at the card table in front of Walter Cronkite’s The 20^th Century.

The white glass cookie jar with generic floral design was never without its chocolate chip, oatmeal, or icebox kin fresh from the oven.

Flaky Crisco crusts embraced apples, coconut, chocolate and banana cream, pumpkin, and the detested rhubarb.

Avocados and enchiladas were introduced on the patio to endless friends and relatives making the sojourn to Disneyland.

Soups made from humble legumes, summer and winter vegetables, were Saturday lunch, accompanied by their obligatory saltines and Wheat Thins topped by the odd duo of cheddar cheese and kippered herring.

Tuesday’s hash took up the slack of roast, potatoes and gravy.

Highbrow, 16-ingredient Chicken Gertrude made its appearance at the Ladies Lunch.

How many recipes made the cut into Hits of the Mrs. P.T.A. Cookbook and The Woman’s Club Our Treasured Recipes?

Cynthia L. Cavanaugh 11/10

And now.....The Reggie Life



Now, here's my pal, Birdy, who lives far away in a place called California. We haven't met, but I'm already in love with her. She has a really cool toy called the Orange Alien, that I don't have and now I want one. Birdy's a little older than me, but I like older girls....I just like girls.