Season II of Downton Abbey spanned the period of Fall 1916 to Spring 1917....in the middle of World War I. The Crawley ladies were immersed in the war effort and Downton itself was converted to a hospital unit. Their day-wear reflected the simpler, efficient, movable silhouettes with hemlines well above the ankle. Suits continued to be embraced by women of all classes.
Wikipedia says about the period: "Changes dress during World War I were dictated more by necessity than fashion. As more and more women were forced to work, they demanded clothes that were better suited to their new activities; these derived from the shirtwaists and tailored suits. Social events were postponed in favor of more pressing engagements and the need to mourn the increasing numbers of dead, visits to the wounded, and the general gravity of the time meant that darker colors and simpler cuts became the norm.[1] A new monochrome look emerged that was unfamiliar to young women in comfortable circumstances. Women dropped the cumbersome underskirts from their tunic-and-skirt ensembles, simplifying dress and shortening skirts in one step.[2] By 1915, the Gazette du Bon Ton was showing full skirts with hemlines at calf length. These were called the "war crinoline" by the fashion press, who promoted the style as "patriotic" and "practical".[3]
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| Isobel Crawley |
Even when not laboring in the war effort, upper class daytime fashion was still simpler with less embellishment. Again from Wikipedia:
"Furthermore people were dressing less extravagantly due to funds being put toward the war effort. According to Eileen Collard, Coco Chanel took notice of this and introduced costume jewelry. She replaced expensive necklaces with glass or crystal beads. "Without grading them to size, she mixed pearls with other beads to fashion original jewelry to be worn with her designs" that were inspired by women joining the workforce."
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| Lady Mary Crawley and Matthew Crawley |
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| Robert & Cora Crawley, the Earl & Countess of Grantham with key members of their staff |
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| Lady Mary Crawley |
And lest we forget the men when they weren't in uniform:
"By 1915 the effects of WWI on men's style became obvious. Jackets were advertised as featuring the"military high-wasited effect". This style echoed the serviceman's uniform and was particularly popular with those returning home. These men sought a comfortable suit similar to those donned while in the war. The high starched collar gave way to the soft collar and high button shoes were replaced by oxfords."
In spite of war shortages and an emphasis on the practical, 1916 and 1917 still offered beautiful examples of fabric and construction. Evening wear among the wealthy still revealed a level of luxe, and the Orientalism that had been such a part of headwear, still made its appearance as the elegant band.
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| Matthew Crawley's fiancé, Lavinia |
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| Lanvin 1917 |
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| Callot Soeurs Winter 1916-1917 |
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| Irene Castle |
And now, The Reggie Life....
Here's a video of me with one of my squeaky toys that was once a part of some poor toy that I destroyed.
