Downton Abbey Revisited, Season I

Jeanne Lanvin 1912

 Downton Abbey is now in its 5th season. In addition to story lines, one of the big draws to this seminal series is the set and costume design. It's time to revisit all the seasons for their costumes and inspiration.

Season I started in 1912 at the end of the Edwardian era, including the sinking of the Titanic, up to the start of World War I. Among the "upstairs" Crawley family, the women wear beautiful examples of this period, which was still ruled by French fashion. During this time, women, even in the wealthy and/or titled classes, began to move into the modern world and wear practical clothes in which they could move easily.

Robe du Soir Beer 1912

Ladies Sybil, Mary, and Edith Crawley

Day clothes were still very feminine and tea gowns with high waists ruled the day. Hats continued to be a part of every ensemble. Edwardian huge, and covered with artificial flowers and real bird feathers (sometimes the entire bird!), chapeaus began to reduce in size and move closer to the cloche style of the 1920's. Hair was still long and pulled up into soft chignons.

Jeanne Paquin 1912

Paul Poiret 1912

"Dressing for Dinner" was obligatory, and tuxedos and formal dresses were required for at-home family dining.

Lady Mary and Robert Crawley, Earl of Grantham

"Orientalism" was all the rage in fashion and interiors. Paul Poiret created "harem pants" matched with turbans, headbands, and feathers that enhanced the exotica. Lady Sybil shocked her family when she appeared in the daring style for dinner.

Lady Sybil Crawley

World War I brought even wealthy women out of the drawing rooms and into the war effort and workforce. Daywear became more practical and comfortable, progressing out of corsets and into bras, skirts continued to rise above the ankle, and easy blouses and skirts took over for lacy, frilly frocks. Although the "hobble skirt" was popular, pleats were added for a more relaxed look and walk. The suit took on a new importance with women moving into office positions.

 

 

Matthew Crawley and Lady Edith Crawley

By 1914, comfort and drape became more important. Madeleine Vionnet, started her house in 1912 and was known in the 30's for her use of diagonal draping. Women, in attitude and dress, were moving into the modern era!

Madeleine Vionnet 1914