Mali Adventure - Day 4

Sitting here in the cooling shade of a café by the River Bani, it’s hard to imagine that this small slice of oasis is in a place of so much sun and so little moisture. But this is a soupçon of water and trees, in a country made more of sand than of green.  Along the Saharan trade route through the millennia, this is a country of empires that have come and gone, Moroccan and sub-Saharan influences, French colonization, where Tuaregs and their camel caravans can appear unexpectedly on the horizon; it’s a surreal landscape.

Along with the official French, Bambara, Dogon, Songhai, Bozo, Fulana, and Tamashek can still be heard in the marketplace where slabs of freshly caught fish lay by baskets of gloriously colored vegetables, the ever-present rice, and beautifully patterned cloth. In this town of mud houses, goats everywhere, the Great Mosque of Djenne', and 3 hour tea rituals consisting of two pots of water and lots of sugar and mint, are beautiful, gracious people.

The Great Mosque

Tomorrow, Timbuktu!! But first….a purchase of Malian Mud Cloth.

The Fabric

A country of few resources, but with a rich history of music and art, young men are continuing a textile tradition that reaches into the balance of water and soil that is so indigenous to Mali. Bo`go`lanfini or bogolan cloth is a coarsely woven cotton cloth set in a yellow dye that is then removed to reveal clean, simple black and white designs that have been painted over the yellow. The dyes of leaves and bark are used to create the gorgeous earthy colors of this striking fabric. Each piece is a work of art, with simple geometric designs that echo the stark beauty of this harsh land. Perfect hung alone on a wall or as a beautiful floor statement, it can also be adapted to wear over other softening fabric. And with big chunky necklaces or a band of silver or gold African bracelets….magnifque′.

The Tea

Mali and Mauritania tea ritual is common throughout North Africa.  The tea that is used is typically Chinese green tea. The tea is brewed over coals and then poured into another pot. It is poured back and forth and then into glasses.  Then again from glass to glass.  Typically this happens from a great height above the pot or glass to aerate the tea and create a frothy foam on top.  It is a true art form and takes quite a bit of practice to get it just right.  It is also a slow process, the ritual can sometimes take hours.  Both in Mali and Mauritania it is often made and served by the man of the house.  After the first glass, mint is added as is copious amounts of sugar.  Like a full cup of sugar.  It is supposed to be really really sweet.   

Muslims do not drink alcohol and some believe the sugar creates a high and sometimes it is called desert whisky. There is a saying that first glass is bitter like life, the second strong like love and the third gentle like death.  If you have your own tea ritual or are ever invited, proper etiquette says you should slurp your tea loudly and every drop should be enjoyed. It is the ultimate form of hospitality when tea is shared.  Enjoy a little Mali and Mauritania tea ritual.